Avenue K9

Obviously, I love my dogs. I love my dogs so much, I write about them almost daily on this website.  I love my dogs so much, that I have given up lots of little things so that I can make them as happy and healthy as possible:

1. Sleeping in. Back in the college days, I’d sleep in until noon on the weekends. These days, I’m up bright and early, standing outside with the dogs in my pj’s, hoping they’ll pee sooner than later.

2. Your bed. Speaking of sleeping, get used to fighting your dog for blankets and bed-space. Pom Pom is only 8 lbs, but somehow manages to sleep in this crazy diagonal position that leaves me with my butt hovering off the bed almost every morning.

3. Cheap apartments. “Honey! Come look at this amazing loft apartment in the middle of the city! Look at that amazing view! Look how cheap that rent is! ….oh, no dogs allowed…”

(Honorable mention: Pet rent, pet deposits, non-refundable pet fees.)

4. Easy vacations. I’ll admit, I sometimes get envious to the point of irritation when I see that my friends post of their Facebook that they decided to pack up the car and drive to Vegas for the weekend. If I don’t have anyone around willing to take my dogs for two days with only an hour’s notice,  then my only outing this weekend will be getting free samples at Costco.

5. Black clothing. Speaking of Costco, better go buy a 20-pack of pet-hair rollers if you plan on keeping your dark clothing in rotation.

6.  The back seat of your car. I have a doggie car seat and a pet blanket in the back of my Prius.

7.  Storage space. Cupboards and drawers become places to store the expensive dog food, treats, hair brushes, toys, vet files, extra bowls…

8. Your wallet. (see numbers 3 and 7 above)

9. Your couch. I’m typing this list on my laptop while sitting on my couch. I can barely move my left arm because Casper has half of his body on it. Sleeping. Snoring. Dead weight.

10. Your sanity. There comes a point when we cross from the world of being the person who points and laughs at the guy who puts a sweater on his pit bull, to being the one who makes room in his closet for doggie Halloween costumes.

I am that guy.

1. Spay or neuter your pet. Not only do sterilized pets typically have fewer health problems associated with their reproductive systems, but they are also calmer and less likely to bite.

2. Consult with a veterinarian and pediatrician if the thought of your newborn interacting with the family pet makes you uncomfortable. By working with these experts before your baby is born, you can resolve problems early and put your mind at ease.

3. Address any pet training and behavior problems. If your pet exhibits fear and anxiety, now is the time to get help from an animal behavior specialist. If your pet’s behavior includes gentle nibbling, pouncing, or swatting at you and others, redirect that behavior to appropriate objects.

4.Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.

5. Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying, turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime.

6. If the baby’s room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your pet to see and hear what’s happening in the room, he’ll feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises.

7. Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing.

8. Take your pet to the veterinarian for a routine health exam and necessary vaccinations.

9.Before you bring your baby home from the hospital, have your partner or friend take home something with the baby’s scent (such as a blanket) for your pet to investigate.

10. After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. To prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction.

Source: Humane Society of The United States

1. Neuter: For pet dogs, early neutering will stop marking behavior in the majority of dogs. Neutering at an early age can prevent the habit forming. For older dogs, neutering may still have the desired effect but marking in the house may have become a habit that you will have to break.

Testosterone seems to play a role in urine marking. At least one study has shown that neutering a dog at any age will help prevent it. It can’t be guaranteed that neutering a dog is going to magically cure this problem but if you don’t neuter a male dog, your chances of breaking the habit are greatly reduced.

2. Supervise and Break the Habit. You MUST catch him in the act! DOGS LEARN QUICKLY FROM THIS!

Close supervision is necessary. You must be dedicated to stop the marking behavior of your dog and you must be consistent. Some people have reported that it has only taken a day or two using the intense supervision method.

Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand.

If barricading is not possible another option is to put your dog on a retractable lead while he is in the house with you and for you to have total control at all times.

3. Make yourself a Shaker Bottle or Shaker Can: A shaker can is simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it. The opening is taped over to prevent the coins flying out. It makes a lot of noise when you shake it up and down.

A shaker bottle is a plastic bottle with some small pebbles or coins placed inside.

Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice ‘NO PEE’.

OK, so you have stopped him peeing once. Now you have to be consistent and diligent and continue with the behavior modification each and every time you see him attempt to mark urine.

Do not rant, rave or smack your dog at any time. Punishment will make an insecure dog more insecure.

This method is not intended for house training your puppy, only for urine marking. Potty training is another issue.

4. Praise him when he pees where you want him to: Don’t forget to praise your dog when he marks in an appropriate place. If you are outside and he marks on a tree or other acceptable object or area tell him what a good boy he is. Tell him, ‘Pee here, good boy’ in a happy voice. Dogs learn quickly from positive responses to their behavior.

The message you are trying to get across to him is that urine marking isn’t bad, but that marking inside the house isn’t such a good idea.

When you go out. Dogs who suffer separation anxiety may pee while you are out. They are not peeing out of spite because you left them, dogs just don’t think like this. They are feeling anxious at being left alone. Try leaving them an item of your worn clothing with your familiar smells on it. This just might be enough to settle their anxiety.

5. Confinement is the only answer for some dogs: Some dogs will never be able to be trusted with the run of the house. Although inconvenient to you it may be necessary to close doors to certain rooms and only allow freedom in the rooms he can be trusted. Another alternative is to use Belly Bands (see below)

6. Deterrents. Spray Commander is a system which uses a device that is attached to the dog’s collar which delivers a harmless but unpleasant spray to the dog. You activate the spray with a remote control when you catch the dog in the act of inappropriate behavior such as urine marking on your furniture.

You may be able to deter your from dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him. This may deter some dogs but it will have no effect on others. You could also try putting his water bowl in his favorite spot.

7. Cleaning is important. You must thoroughly clean areas where your dog has peed in the past and completely remove the scent to discourage your dog from re-marking in the same place. Use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water and wash the soiled areas well.

Avoid using ammonia based products to clean dog urine. One of the ingredients of dog urine is ammonia and he may well be encouraged to re-mark in the same area.

8. Visiting Friends. If you think your dog is likely to urine mark in your friend’s house don’t give him the opportunity to do so. Keep him on a leash at all times. You can walk him around the new environment on the leash and if he gives the slightest hint that he may cock his leg, tell him ‘NO’. Or you could take your Shaker Can with you. You may eventually be able to trust him but if the house you are visiting has pets living there it could be a very challenging task.

9. New Baby? If your dog has newly acquired the habit of urine marking since bringing a new baby home you will need to reassure him that he is still loved and part of the family. Involve him in fun activities while the baby is around making the baby and associated baby smells less of a threat to him.

10. Belly Bands. Sometimes it can be very difficult to stop your dog peeing everywhere in the house, on your furniture and other objects.

Belly Bands may be a solution when all else has failed.

As with any behavior problem, there may be an underlying medical condition which is causing the marking. Get your vet to check him out.

Source: dogchatforum.com

1. Good: You know what your dog’s poop looks like.
Better: You know what your neighbor’s dog’s poop looks like.

2. Good: Your dog has a more extensive wardrobe than the guy of the house.
    Better: Your dog has a more extensive wardrobe than the lady of the house.

3. Good: Your dog regularly watches Animal Planet on TV
Better: You WATCH your dog watch animal planet

4. Good: You regularly brush your dog’s teeth
    Better: You regularly use your personal toothbrush to brush your dog’s teeth

5. Good: You check online product reviews to ensure you’re buying the best food and treats for your dog
Better: You personally taste test the food and treats before giving them to your dog

6. Good: You walk your dog while pushing your baby’s stroller.
Better: You walk your baby while pushing your dog in a stroller.

1. NSAIDs
NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) like ibuprofen or naproxen are the most common cause of pet poisoning in small animals, and can cause serious problems even in minimal doses. Pets are extremely sensitive to their effects, and may experience stomach and intestinal ulcers and—in the case of cats—kidney damage.
2. Antidepressants
Antidepressants can cause vomiting and lethargy and certain types can lead to serotonin syndrome—a condition marked by agitation, elevated body temperature, heart rate and blood pressure, disorientation, vocalization, tremors and seizures.
3. Acetaminophen
Cats are especially sensitive to acetaminophen, which can damage red blood cells and interfere with their ability to transport oxygen. In dogs, it can cause liver damage and, at higher doses, red blood cell damage.
4. Methylphenidate (for ADHD)
Medications used to treat ADHD (Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder) in people act as stimulants in pets and can dangerously elevate heart rates, blood pressure and body temperature, as well as cause seizures.
5. Fluorouracil
Fluorouracil—an anti-cancer drug—is used topically to treat minor skin cancers and solar keratitis in humans. It has proven to be rapidly fatal to dogs, causing severe vomiting, seizures and cardiac arrest even in those who’ve chewed on discarded cotton swabs used to apply the medication.

6. Isoniazid
Often the first line of defense against tuberculosis, isoniazid is particularly toxic for dogs because they don’t metabolize it as well as other species. It can cause a rapid onset of severe seizures that may ultimately result in death.
7. Pseudoephedrine
Pseudoephedrine is a popular decongestant in many cold and sinus products, and acts like a stimulant if accidentally ingested by pets. In cats and dogs, it causes elevated heart rates, blood pressure and body temperature as well as seizures.
8. Anti-diabetics
Many oral diabetes treatments—including glipizide and glyburide—can cause a major drop in blood sugar levels of affected pets. Clinical signs of ingestion include disorientation, lack of coordination and seizures.
9. Vitamin D derivatives
Even small exposures to Vitamin D analogues like calcipotriene and calcitriol can cause life-threatening spikes in blood calcium levels in pets. Clinical signs of exposure—including vomiting, loss of appetite, increased urination and thirst due to kidney failure—often don’t occur for more than 24 hours after ingestion.
10. Baclofen
Baclofen is a muscle relaxant that can impair the central nervous systems of cats and dogs. Some symptoms of ingestion include significant depression, disorientation, vocalization, seizures and coma, which can lead to death.

Source: aspca.org

1. Con: They gotta pee, but you can’t walk ‘em and they refuse to use the toilet. So selfish…

2. Pro: They don’t mind you blowing your nose every five seconds.

3. Con: It took you an hour to build up the strength to get up off the couch and get their food ready, but they’d rather beg for your chicken soup and Jamba Juice.

4. Pro: They make excellent heat packs, which help soothe those achy, sore muscles.

5. Con: Sudden energy bursts at midnight…JUST to rub it in.

6. Pro: They are the ONE living being in the house that won’t catch your germs!

7. Con: It’s shedding season and their hair is leading to massive sneezing attacks.

8. Pro: Surprisingly tolerant of the all-day watching of Law and Order reruns.

9. Con: They steal your used Kleenex. Gross.

10. Pro: They’re quite content about the prospect of staying in bed with you all day.

1. Use a dog-proof litter box, such as a top-entry cabinet box.

2. Place the litter box(es) in a room that you can gate off in some way so that your cat has access but your dog does not. You can use a cat door or a baby gate that the cat can climb over or under but your dog can’t. You can use an accordion-style gate that has openings large enough for your cat but not your dog.

3. Use a hooded litter box so that your dog can’t get his head into the box. Be aware, however, that some cats dislike hooded boxes and will refuse to use them.

4. Place booby traps near or in the litter box(es) that startle your dog and keep him away. Empty soda cans positioned above the box so that your dog knocks them over, a motion-activated alarm and Snappy Trainers all work well. Be aware that you can only implement this procedure for specific periods of time when your dog has access but your cat is confined away from the box. Otherwise, you risk startling your cat and discouraging him from using the litter box.

5.There are also indoor dog containment systems available that activate a citronella collar whenever your dog approaches the system’s movable base, and you could place this base near the litter box.

6. Use a taste deterrent on your cat’s feces, such as finely ground black pepper, crushed hot pepper, Tabasco® sauce, or Grannick’s Bitter Apple® spray or gel. You must apply the deterrent consistently to the feces for a significant period of time so that he comes to expect that all cat feces taste horrible. You may need to use the deterrent weeks or even months, depending on the length of time the coprophagia has been going on. For this treatment to be most effective, you will need to restrict your dog’s access to water for 10 to 20 minutes after he has tasted the deterrent. Otherwise, he may just drink water to counteract its effect. Do NOT use any type of verbal warning or else your dog will learn that the cat litter box is fair game unless you’re watching him. For more detailed information, please see our article, Using Taste Deterrents.

7. Try a deterrent that you can use remotely, such as a loud air horn or a citronella or air pressure remote-controlled collar. (If you use a collar, your dog should wear it in the context in which the coprophagia occurs for 10 to 14 days before you start using it. Your dog will get used to wearing the collar, and this will minimize the likelihood that he’ll associate the punishment with wearing it.) Position yourself where you can observe your dog from a distance or without being seen. Ideally, you want him to be unaware of your presence. The instant you see your dog place his head in the litter box, blast the air horn or activate the collar. If timed correctly, your dog will startle and leap away from the box. You’ll need to apply this deterrent every time your dog attempts to eat cat feces and persist until he shows clear avoidance of the box for several weeks.

8. If all else fails and you’re at your wit’s end, it might be time to call in a professional for some advice.

9. Do not rub your dog’s nose in feces. This procedure won’t fix the problem and might make your dog frightened of you.

10. Do not physically punish your dog for eating feces. Hitting him with a newspaper or spanking him probably won’t stop him from eating feces, and it might cause more serious problems, such as fear or aggression.

Source: aspca.org